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1 Dyer, John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1833 England[br]English inventor of an improved milling machine for woollen cloth.[br]After being woven, woollen cloth needed to be cleaned and compacted to thicken it and take out the signs of weaving. The traditional way of doing this was to place the length of cloth in fulling stocks, where hammers pounded it in a solution of fuller's earth, but in 1833 John Dyer, a Trowbridge engineer, took out a patent for the first alternative way with real possibilities. He sold the patent the following year but must have reserved the right to make his machine himself, incorporating various additions and improvements into it, because many of the machines used in Trowbridge after 1850 came from him. Milling machines were often used in conjunction with fulling stocks. The cloth was made up into a continuous length and milled by rollers forcing it through a hole or spout, from where it dropped into the fulling liquid to be soaked before being pulled out and pushed through the hole again. Dyer had three pairs of rollers, with one pair set at right angles to the others so that the cloth was squeezed in two directions. These machines do not seem to have come into general use until the 1850s. His machine closely resembled those still in use.[br]Bibliography1833, British patent no. 6,460 (milling machine).Further ReadingJ.de L.Mann, 1971, The Cloth Industry in the West of England from 1660 to 1880, Oxford (provides a brief account of the introduction of the milling machine).K.G.Ponting, 1971, The Woollen Industry of South-West England, Bath (a general account of the textile industry in the West Country).RLH -
2 Lewis, John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c. 1815 England[br]English developer of a machine for shearing woollen cloth with rotary cutters.[br]To give a smooth surface to cloth such as the old English broadcloth, the nap was raised and then sheared off. Hand-operated shears of enormous size were used to cut the fibres that stuck up when the cloth was laid over a curved table top. Great skill was required to achieve a smooth finish. Various attempts, such as that in 1784 by James Harmer, a clergyman of Sheffield, were made to mechanize the process by placing several pairs of shears in a frame and operating them by cranks, but success was not achieved. Samuel G. Dow of Albany, New York, patented a rotary shearer in England in 1794, and there was Samuel Dore in the same year too. John Lewis never claimed that he invented the rotary cutter, and it is possible that he made have seen drawings or actual examples of these earlier machines. His claim in his patent of 1815 was that, for the first time, he brought together a number of desirable features in one machine for shearing cloth to achieve the first really successful example. The local story in the Stroudwater district in Gloucestershire is that Lewis obtained this idea from Budding, who as a lad worked for the Lewis family, clothiers at Brinscombe Mills; Budding invented a lawn mower with rotary barrel blades that works on the same principle, patenting it in 1830. In the shearing machine, the cloth was moved underneath the blades, which could be of the same width so that only one operation was needed for each side. Other inventors had similar ideas, and a Stroud engineer, Stephen Price, took out a patent a month after Lewis did. These machines spread quickly in the Gloucestershire textile industry, and by 1830 hand-shearing was extinct. John Lewis was the son of Joseph, who had inherited the Brinscombe Mills in 1790 but must have died before 1815, when his children mortgaged the property for £12,000. Joseph's three sons, George, William and John, worked the mill for a time, but in 1840 William was there alone.[br]Bibliography1815, British patent no. 3,945 (rotary shearing machine).Further ReadingJ. de L.Mann, 1971, The Cloth Industry in the West of England from 1660 to 1880, Oxford (the best account of the introduction of the shearing machines).J.Tann, 1967, Gloucestershire Woollen Mills, Newton Abbot (includes notes about the Brinscombe Mills).K.G.Ponting, 1971, The Woollen Industry of South-West England, Bath; and H.A.Randall, 1965–6, "Some mid-Gloucestershire engineers and inventors", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 38 (both mention Lewis's machine).RLH -
3 Dore (Dorr), Samuel Griswold
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. USAd. 1794 England[br]American inventor of the first rotary shearing machine.[br]To give a smooth surface to cloth such as the old English broadcloth, the nap was raised and then sheared off. Hand-operated shears of enormous size cut the fibres standing proud of the surface while the cloth was laid over a curved table top. Great skill was required to achieve a smooth finish. Various attempts, such as that in 1784 by James Harmer, a clergyman of Sheffield, were made to mechanize the process by placing several pairs of shears in a frame and operating them by cranks, but these were not successful. The first version of a rotary machine was made by Samuel Griswold Dore (sometimes spelt Dorr), an American from Albany, New York. His first frame, patented in 1792 in America, consisted of a wheel of twelve "spring knives" that were fixed like spokes and set at an angle of about 45° to the horizontal. Under this wheel, and on the same axle, rode a second one, carrying four "tangent knives" that lay almost flat upon the cloth. As the two wheels rotated above the cloth's surface, they acted in "the manner of shears". The principle used in Dore's machine is certainly different from that in the later, successful machine of John Lewis. The machine was thought to be too complicated and expensive for American woollen manufacturers and was much better suited to circumstances in the English industry, Dore therefore moved to England. However, in his British patent in 1793, he introduced a different design, which was more like that on which both Lewis's machine and the lawnmower were based, with knives set across the periphery of a hollow cylinder or barrel. Little more was heard of his machine in Britain, possibly because of Dore's death, which is mentioned in his patent of 1794, although it was used in America and France. Dore's son and others improved the machine in America and brought new specifications to England in 1811, when several patents were taken out.[br]Bibliography1792. US patent (rotary shearing machine).1793. British patent no. 1,945 (rotary shearing machine). 1794. British patent no. 1,985.Further ReadingD.J.Jeremy, 1981, Transatlantic Industrial Revolution. The Diffusion of Textile Technologies Between Britain and America, 1790–1830s, Oxford (examines Dore's inventions and their transfer to Britain).Mention of Dore can be found in: J. de L.Mann, 1971, The Cloth Industry in the West of England from 1660 to 1880, Oxford; K.G.Ponting, 1971, The Woollen Industry of South-West England, Bath.C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press (discusses Dore's inventions).RLHBiographical history of technology > Dore (Dorr), Samuel Griswold
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